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     Costa del Sol

Extremadura: A place of beauty and hidden treasure of the Roman Empire

• 07 Jun 2007 •

By Barbara Kamphuis

AFTER spending some time in the north, this week The Euro Weekly News goes south again, to the beautiful region of Extremadura. Extremadura is an area not many people are familiar with. It is mainly known for its nature and being the birthplace of many of the conquerors of South and Central America. It is also the place where a large part of the old Silver Route is situated. The region is sparsely populated and has no coastline or beaches. However, it is the perfect destination for anyone seeking a “real Spanish” experience, since many old traditions and customs have survived here, untouched by mass tourism.

The region is divided into two provinces, Caceres in the north and Badajoz in the south, with Merida as the capital, even though Badajoz has the most inhabitants. A visit to both is a must for those interested in the rich history and culture of a region once regarded as a great prize by the Roman Empire as well as by Moorish sultans and Christian conquerors. Evidence of these cultures can still be found in many places and make this region a very interesting place to visit.

Merida is the third city of Extremadura and is situated almost in the middle of the region. The city was meant as a quiet retreat for retired Roman soldiers and therefore many leisure buildings were built. It boasts some of the world’s most important Roman remains including a magnificent bridge with 64 granite arches (the longest bridge ever built in Spain by the Romans), a 10-kilometre aqueduct, an amphitheatre and a theatre, where summer plays are still staged more than 2,000 years after it was constructed, under the orders of the Roman general Agrippa.

The theatre was built in 15 BC and had space for more than 6,000 people. The grandstand was divided into three parts, each for a different class of the population. The stage measures 60 by seven metres and was originally made of wood. The entrance consists of two rows of columns of 18 metres high with decorative sculptures in between. Behind the stage were rooms where the actors could change into their costumes. Most of the structures have collapsed but the columns and the grandstand are still in good condition.

The amphitheatre was even bigger with a capacity of 15,000 people and was inaugurated in 8 BC. It was built with cement, natural stone and granite. There are 16 gates and two grandstands. The fights between gladiators and animals took place in the central arena. Two galleries provided access to the grandstands which were divided into three parts for the different social classes just as in the theatre.

In these galleries you can also find the place where the gladiators are believed to have lived. In the middle of the arena there is also a storage area where scenery and spears were kept. Nowadays the galleries and the grandstands are still visible and accessible.

Another great site is the Temple of Diana, which actually belonged to the Imperial Cult. It was build at the end of the first century BC and is one of the only Roman buildings which has been well preserved, due to the restoration which took place during the building of the Palacio del Conde de los Corbos in the 16th century. The temple contains a rectangular floor surrounded by granite columns, which were originally painted red. Archaeological findings have substantiated the religious meaning of the temple.

The beautiful walled city of Badajoz, near the Portuguese border, is also well worth a visit with its mighty Arab citadel and wealth of museums and historic sites. The Alcazaba, which was built by the founder of the city, Ibn Marwan, somewhere between 875 and 913, is situated on a hill around 60 metres above sea level and measures 400 by 200 metres. It is completely walled and fortified with towers that defended the city. The majority of these towers are located on the south and west side, because these were the most likely places of attack.

On the south/west side of the Alcazaba you will find the Torre de la Atalays, better known as “Espantaperros”. It is an octagonal tower from the Almohad era and is 30 metres high. The structure is similar to that of the Torre de Oro in Sevilla and is one of the most characteristic buildings in Badajoz.

Another interesting site in Badajoz is the Puerta de Palmas which dates from the 16th century. It consists of two round towers connected by a double arch. It was part of the medieval network of walls surrounding the city, but now only the gate remains. The inner arch carries the family coat of arms of Carlos V and the entire gate is covered in inscriptions, coats of arms and images of Spanish kings. Interestingly, the gate was used as a state prison in the 19th century.

Caceres is the capital of the province of Caceres and is the touristic centre of Extremadura. The walled city contains many treasures from all eras dating from the Roman Empire. The Torre de Bujaco is one of the most famous monuments in Caceres. It is situated at the Plaza Mayor and originates from Arab times but was later used by the Brothers of Caceres, who defended it against the Arab Caliph Abu Ya’qub in 1173. Between 1672 and 1791, the tower had a clock and was known as the Torre del Reloj. The tower is open to tourists who can enjoy the splendid view of the city from the roof top.

The Palacio de Las Veletas, built in 1477, is situated in the old Almohad alcazar. It is one of the few buildings that does not have defence elements. On the roof there is a large railing with gargoyles and weathervanes (veletas). Inside is the museum of Carceres, which contains important archaeological and ethnographical findings, besides works of art. The most spectacular element of the building is the basement, housing 16 arches which rest on 12 columns, some of which stem from the Roman era.

Trujillo with its Moorish castle, glorious central square and monument to its famous son Francisco Pizarro, who conquered Peru, is also a fascinating city to visit.

The magnificent and natural beauty of Extremadura make it one of the most impressive cities in Spain. The northern part with its beautiful landscape of mountain ranges and its abundant vegetation was, and still is, a very difficult area to pass through, and therefore has kept its old traditions.

In the south lies, the Sierra Morena mountain range. It has great natural wealth where a lot of hunting takes place. There are many lakes and swamps in the region, making it an excellent place for water sports even though it is situated inland.

The Monfragüe natural park in Caceres is close to the location chosen by Spanish Emperor Carlos I as the starting point for the exploration of the world. It is a Mediterranean forest where many animal species live in an almost untouched environment. It covers almost 18,000 hectares and 75 per cent of its animals are protected, including the Iberian Lynx, the Imperial Eagle and the Black Stork which thrive there.Las Hurdes, bordering the Salamanca province in the north, is a natural paradise where juniper and taxus (yew) bushes line the slopes of wild valleys with numerous little creeks and streams below. Fruit trees also grow in the area due to its humid and soft climate.

The culmination of all the above make Extremadura a very special place to visit when you want to immerse yourself in the old Spanish way of life.

Our next stop will be in the north-west corner of Spain, in Galicia.
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