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Algarve |
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Irrigation quarrel - Letter from the Algarve by Frances Ruddick
• 14 Jun 2007 •
 VISITORS to the eastern Algarve invariably make the journey across the border into Spain. There is no equivalent experience in Britain – crossing an invisible line demarking a different language, government, culture and time zone.
When friends come to stay we often share the cross border experience with them and then drive onto Doñana National Park, one of Spain's largest and most important nature reserves. It's only an hour from the border at Castro Marim and if you haven't been, then let me be the one to recommend it.
Teeming with birds, deer, wild boar and foxes, it is also home to the last remaining Iberian lynx. These shy creatures are rarely seen but a few still roam the park enjoying a diet of mostly rabbits and hares. Much is being done to increase this endangered population of Iberian lynx. By fencing the perimeter and restricting the use of private vehicles, the park has been able to reduce the numbers of lynx that die on the road.
Visitors can only travel around in four-wheel drive Mercedes trucks. Numbers are restricted and the circular four-hour tour must be booked up in advance.
The journey is breathtaking, travelling along Doñana's deserted beach, the riverbanks of the Guadalquivir, the salt flats, marshes and magnificent dunes. Further inland fresh water streams support different types of vegetation, birds and mammals, so that Doñana is an environmental paradise.
It is the next best trip to an African safari although it's not for the faint-hearted and those prone to motion sickness. One of our friends shrieked when a family of boars ran across the track causing our driver to swerve. Another pal came over truck sick as we rode the rolling dunes and I personally had the misfortune of spraining my wrist.
Whatever mishaps might befall, there is no doubt that Doñana is an exceptional place, totally unlike the rest of Andalucia which over the last 20 years has become one of Spain's most developed agricultural regions.
Imagine therefore the furore there was a few years ago when it was discovered some farmers had been leaching away water supplies by sinking illegal wells. It caused the underground water table to drop, threatening damage to the wetlands of Doñana.
How convenient it was for some Andalucian farmers to water their crops of strawberries, melons and citrus trees, free of metered charges. They must have known that they were doing wrong and subsequently their once green fingers have been burned. Much of the fruit, destined for Germany, Holland and Britain was subjected to grave criticism as environmental groups raised concern about the dishonest methods used for irrigation.
In Germany, where the matter was taken very seriously, it was suggested that supermarkets and fruit wholesalers shopped elsewhere since the farmers of Andalucia could not be trusted. Many chose to do so and have not returned to their original suppliers.
The Spanish government appointed a commissioner for water to seek out and close down illegal wells. Those farms which had paid no water consumption charges immediately fell under suspicion but despite it only involving a few, the scandal damaged the agricultural reputation of the region.
In May 2007, Mayor Millán of Cartaya – one of the districts most seriously affected by the German boycott – petitioned the Spanish Prime Minister for his help in reversing the continuing negative trend. Even today, fruit traders insist that Andalucian farmers produce water consumption certificates as proof that they are not using illegal wells.
How unjust it seems that the unlawful actions of a few farmers have damaged the good name of the region. Recently adopted Andalucian proverb: Crop cultivation is not advanced by throwing manure at the fan or tapping illegal water.
To book a round trip of Doñana, call (00 34) 959 430 432. |  Return to Top
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