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Algarve |
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The capital’s music culture
• 11 Oct 2007 •
 LISBOA’S Alfama district (see Letter from the Algarve) is well known for its fado nightspots where dolorous fadistas singing plaintiff lyrics express unrequited love. One or more guitarists accompany the melancholy female voice.
Almost certainly fado was born in the Alfama district in the 1830s and in terms of a genuine location there is no better place to hear it.
The district is endowed with many other types of music clubs, some which specialise in Brazilian sounds. At Pé Sejo, samba and férro groups play live. Others offer the music of Portugal’s ex-African colonies. Chavé de To on Rua do Salvador is one of the best.
Nearer to the centre of the city, the Ritz Clube – just west of Avenida da Liberdade – is Lisboa’s largest African music venue. It has a resident band and is situated in what was once a brothel-cum-music hall.
Nearby, on Praça de Alegria, Hot Clube de Portugal has long been the city’s foremost jazz venue, hosting international performers. It is also noted for its jam sessions when improvised music emanates from the cellar location. The surroundings are far from salubrious but the acoustics in the basement work well.
The club sponsors musicians to attend its own school, Escola de Jazz do HCP. To encourage good audience attendance, when students from the school are performing, entry to the club is free.
On most nights there are two music sessions at 11pm and 12.30pm. The smoky atmosphere is reminiscent of Liverpool’s Cavern Club in the 1960s, although the music is strictly jazz and the audience aficionados of the style.
Few tourists make it to this venue but for jazz fans of all nationalities it is well worth a visit. There is an interesting selection of Portuguese tipples to tempt the uneducated palate. Select from Brandy Mel, Amarguinha, Licor Beirão and Macieira, all at four euros. House wine is 11 euros. Closed on Sunday and Monday.
For more information, visit www.hcp.pt |  Return to Top
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