A British brand turns fine art into fashion in Moscow

September marks the peak of the international fashion calendar: the new season begins in New York, followed by London and Milan, while Moscow Fashion Week takes place from 26 September to 1 October, before Paris brings the fashion month to a close on 6 October. On the Moscow runway, British fashion brand Black Crown Label will present a collection with an unusual source of inspiration: paintings by artist and musician Naseer Shamma will be transformed into complete looks. The brand’s founder, Nohad Al Samarrie, describes the show as a “living gallery”, where images from the canvas are translated into the cut of each garment while remaining recognisable in the finished pieces. The collection merges fashion with fine art, incorporating Eastern traditions into Western silhouettes.

For Black Crown Label, this fusion of cultures comes naturally: Middle Eastern roots and Western tailoring have always been part of the brand’s identity. Nohad Al Samarrie expects this combination to resonate in Moscow: “I believe this aesthetic has a particular resonance with Russian culture, which has historically existed at a fascinating crossroads between Europe and Asia and has a strong appreciation for art, craftsmanship and expressive design”. But the brand’s Moscow debut is not only an opportunity to highlight this cultural connection; it is also a step towards strengthening its position in the Russian market: “My main expectation from Moscow Fashion Week is to expand Black Crown Label’s presence in the Russian market and build strong brand recognition in Russia”.

The expectations of the British independent brand align with the mission of the Moscow platform. Moscow Fashion Week supports emerging designers from around the world, helping them gain the attention of the press and buyers. In recent years, its runway has featured dozens of talented brands from Asia, Europe, Latin America, Africa, the United States and the Middle East, and for many of them, Moscow has become an international launchpad, providing rapid access to a global audience.

In the new season, another European designer will join Black Crown Label on the Moscow runway: Miguel Llopis from Spain. He will present his Valentia collection, inspired by Valencia’s costume traditions and architecture and built around corsets and structured bodices. The designer has previously shown at Moscow Fashion Week and confirms the value of taking part: “We are returning because the platform offers strong visibility, meaningful industry connections, and an audience that appreciates distinctive design and cultural identity”. After the previous show, the brand established new contacts with buyers, retailers and the press, leading to commercial discussions beyond Spain, while Miguel Llopis’s collections were recognised in Spain with the Tendencias Award for international promotion in fashion.

Designers with strong local identities from Turkey, China, Nicaragua, Mali, Sri Lanka and other countries will also present their collections at Moscow Fashion Week. Talented Russian designers will likewise draw on their own heritage. For centuries, unique craft traditions – including lacemaking, weaving and embroidery – have evolved and been passed down from generation to generation. Today, they serve as both inspiration and a foundation for a new generation of fashion brands. Vereja hand-knits its collections, transforming the motifs of carved window frames from traditional Russian izbas into patterned knitwear and the brand’s signature fairytale characters. Anna Kropotova based her latest “Murmuration” collection on the image of the ice ridges of Lake Baikal, while Kholuiskaya Strochka is reviving openwork embroidery on linen, a craft practised in the village of the same name since the 17th century.

At the same time as Moscow Fashion Week, from 28 to 30 September, the Russian capital will host the BRICS+ Fashion Summit – the fashion business forum of fast-growing economies. European experts will also take part as speakers, including Sergio Puig, Director of Mediterranea Fashion Week Valencia, and Antonio Alizzi, Scientific Director of Rizzola Academy. This concentration of international events shows that the Russian capital has become an important fashion hub, bringing together professionals from around the world and helping shape the future of the global fashion industry.

By Jane Brown